A Fellow Hiker’s Journey Through the Peaks of the Balkans: Tips and Insights from Evelina

We recently received this detailed and insightful account of a hike through the Peaks of the Balkans from one of our fellow hikers, Evelina. Her experience, along with her son (14), is packed with practical tips, personal insights, and lessons learned along the way. Here’s her story, shared in her own words:

Planning and Adjusting on the Go

I originally planned to do an 8-day hike with a shortcut from Milishevc to Babino Polje. Unfortunately, we got sick partway through and had to shorten our trip to 5 walking days, starting and finishing in Theth. To make up for lost days, we took a long shortcut from Doberdol to Plav and then a taxi from Plav to Vusanje. July was exceptionally hot, so we took extra water and used a lot of sunscreen—something I highly recommend if you’re hiking in the summer.

Getting the Permit

I applied for the cross-border permit independently using the information I found here: Cross-Border Procedures. I sent my request to the following emails: [email protected], [email protected], and [email protected]. I got responses from Montenegro and Kosovo but never heard back from Albania. Technically, if you start and finish in Albania, you don’t need the permit, but I decided to follow the rules anyway.

Money Matters

In my experience, there’s no need to change Euros to Lek. Everyone I met was happy to accept Euros. If you do need to change money at the airport, avoid the bank next to the luggage belts—head to the counter in the arrivals hall after customs for better rates and faster service.

Getting There

We landed in Tirana in the morning and took the bus to the city, asking the driver to drop us off at Casa Italia. It’s just across the street from the main bus station (Google Maps: 8QVG+PQ2, Kashar, Albania) with buses going to Shkoder. If you’re in a hurry, I recommend skipping the bus and taking a taxi from the airport directly to the bus station.

From Shkoder, we caught the 7 AM minibus to Theth the next morning. It was quite an experience—stopping at every shop along the way to pick up essentials like milk, bread, and even light bulbs for the folks in Theth. The minibus journey took 3-4 hours and also made plenty of stops at local farms to deliver supplies.

Navigating the Trail

For navigation, I used the Mapy CZ app, which I found very user-friendly and free to use. Just make sure to download the offline maps for all three countries. The app was a lifesaver, helping us find shortcuts and providing detailed information about water sources—a must in the hot weather. If you’re comfortable with the app, you can easily plan your hike to suit your pace, including extensions and day trips.

Theth to Valbona

This leg was nice with plenty of places to refill water, so no need to carry too much. The final stretch into Valbona is a long slog along a dry riverbed and then a road—not pleasant in the heat. If you can arrange a taxi to your guesthouse at the end, do it. It’s worth it.

Valbona to Cerem

I recommend taking the high path, which is well marked. You’ll only find water once you start descending to Cerem, so carry plenty with you. There’s also a cave called Ledena Pecina along the way that’s perfect for a refreshing stop thanks to its natural air-conditioning.

Cerem to Doberdol

This high-altitude day offered cooler temperatures and plenty of water stops. There are also a few basic places to stay overnight if you want to break the hike into two days.

Vusanje to Theth

Make sure to visit the waterfall and Grasshopper’s Eye near Vusanje. The descent into Theth is long, dry, and exposed, but stunningly beautiful.

Guesthouse Recommendations

• Valbona: Mehmeti Guesthouse – Good place with good food. Note that it’s about 30 minutes past the route to Cerem, so you’ll need to backtrack about 2 KM the next morning.
• Cerem: Avoid Guesthouse Relax. A sweet kid may approach you on the trail and lead you there, but I’d recommend looking for other options in Cerem.
• Doberdol: I stayed at Leonard for one night and Bashkimi for two. Bashkimi is definitely worth the extra 3 Euros—it’s much better. Doberdol is the most remote and beautiful place I stayed during the trek, truly feeling like the end of the world.
• Plav: Despite its lakeside location, Plav was disappointing—dusty, noisy, bad food, and people smoke in restaurants. However, Guesthouse Emina was a highlight.

In Shkoder, I stayed at Mi Casa su Casa Hostel, and in Tirana, I chose Areela Hotel. Both were great, but there are plenty of options to suit any budget.

A Note on Hygiene

For more remote guesthouses, note that they may not wash sheets and blankets regularly, so it’s worth carrying a sleeping bag or liner for hygiene.

Final Thoughts

Enjoy the Peaks of the Balkans—it’s a stunning trek full of unforgettable experiences. Despite the challenges, the trail offers some of the best hiking I’ve ever done.