Self-guided trekking guide · 2026 / 2027 edition

Walk the Peaks of the Balkans on your own terms

Ten stages, three countries, one 192 km loop through the Accursed Mountains. Routes, stage maps, elevation profiles, border permits, transport and guesthouses: everything you need to plan and walk it without a tour.

  • 10Stages
  • 192 kmLoop
  • ≈9,100 mAscent
  • 3Countries
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Look inside the guide ↓

Secure card payment by Stripe · sold by Store & Go, Shkodër

4.9★ on Google for our Shkodër basecamp (163 reviews)

~80 pages · stage maps & elevation profiles

8 appendices · checklist, phrasebook, emergency card

What's inside

Everything you need, from the first bus to the last pass

One guide instead of twenty browser tabs, blog posts and outdated forum threads.

Stage-by-stage route

All ten stages from Theth with distances, times, ascent and descent, plus “what hikers report” notes on the tricky parts.

Maps & elevation profiles

Topographic stage maps with the real trail line and borders, and an elevation profile so you know where the climbs are.

Border permits explained

The loop crosses into Kosovo and Montenegro. Which permits you need, what they cost and how to get them in time.

Getting there & away

Shkodër, Theth, Valbonë, the Lake Komani ferry, Plav, Gusinje and Vusanje: options and latest timetables.

Sleep, eat & budget

Guesthouses on every stage, typical prices, cash and ATMs, food and water, phone signal and wi-fi.

Stay safe out there

Weather, shepherd dogs, wildlife and ticks, navigation, emergency numbers and responsible trekking.

  • Packing checklist
  • Phrasebook
  • Mountain food glossary
  • Booking & permit planner
  • Emergency card
  • Useful resources

Look inside

Real pages from the guide

Stage 2: Valbonë → ÇeremEvery stage opens with distance, time, ascent and a topo map of the trail.
Route summaryAll ten stages at a glance, with the real distances you walk.
ContentsPlanning, getting there, safety, the route and eight appendices.
The trail at a glanceSeason, accommodation, waymarking, difficulty and permits.
Stage 3: Çerem → DobërdolStage maps with the route line and the border.
Elevation profile & route descriptionSection-by-section times so you know what is coming.
IntroductionThe story of the trail and the mountains it crosses.

The route

Ten stages, described in the direction most hikers walk

The official trail is 192 km. On the standard route you walk about 172 km, because almost everyone takes a transfer for the 13 km road section on stage 7. The guide shows both, plus the high variants and side summits.

  1. 01 Theth → Valbonë 16 km · 6–7 h
  2. 02 Valbonë → Çerem 15 km · 5–6 h
  3. 03 Çerem → Dobërdol 15.5 km · 6 h
  4. 04 Dobërdol → Milishevc 20 km · 8–9 h
  5. 05 Milishevc → Rekë e Allagës 15 km · 6–7 h
  6. 06 Rekë e Allagës → Drelaj 10–11 km · 4–5 h
  7. 07 Drelaj → Babino Polje 16 km · 7–8 h
  8. 08 Babino Polje → Plav 20.5 km · 6–7 h
  9. 09 Plav → Vusanje 22 km · 7–8 h
  10. 10 Vusanje → Theth 21 km · 8 h

Choose your format

On your phone, on paper, or both

Collect in Shkodër

Printed copy

€19.99

  • Printed in black & white
  • No battery or signal needed
  • Collect from our 24/7 smart lockers
  • Rruga Studenti 10, Shkodër

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Start in Shkodër

Your basecamp before the loop

Shkodër is the gateway town for Theth and Valbonë. Sort the rest of your trip with us in one stop.

Questions

Good to know before you buy

How do I get the PDF?

The 2026 / 2027 edition PDF is in its final checks. Order now and we email you your personal download link as soon as it is released.

Will it work on my phone?

Yes. It is a standard PDF that opens on any phone, tablet or computer, and you can zoom into the maps.

What is the printed copy like?

It is the same guide printed in black and white, so maps and photos are in greyscale. Pick it up from our smart lockers at Rruga Studenti 10 in Shkodër, open 24/7. You choose your arrival date at checkout, and on the day we send you a link that opens your locker.

Is the guide up to date?

This is the 2026 / 2027 edition, compiled from published sources and recent hikers' reports (2024–2026). Trails, timetables and prices change from season to season, so the guide tells you what to double-check before you set off.

Do I need permits to walk the loop?

Yes. The route crosses the borders of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro, and you need a border-crossing permit for each country (free, or up to about €25 through an agency). The guide explains how to arrange them.

Can I share the PDF?

The PDF is licensed for your personal use: you can keep it on all your devices and print it for yourself. Please don't share it publicly or resell it.

Peaks of the Balkans guide cover

Ready when you are

Plan the whole loop tonight, and walk it with confidence.

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